Evereux to San Marlo

Well here I am back on line again. I'm still pinching myself to see that this journey is real and not a dream. Can't say how much I am enjoying myself. So much to see and learn and do. Anyway here is the next chapter of my journey. Hope you enjoy this part, too.

Saturday 20 June
This morning as I left Evereux, I decided to stay on the main road and make a beeline for Bayeux as I wanted to make sure I had time on my side. However, as usual, I was diverted by roadside signs pointing me in the direction of wonderful new places to explore, and once again I ended up on the country lanes, at least for part of the day. One of the roads and the fact that it was lunchtime, led me to the village of Lieurey This turned out to be the market place for the region and the square was alive with fruit and vegetable stalls and lots of people. It is another pretty town with hedgerows, and old manors.

I had lunch in a little café and had a great and amusing conversation with the owner and patrons. They wanted me to stay and come to the party they were having that night and partake of the cook-up of Moules et frites (Mussels and chips). It was very tempting but Bayeux was calling.

I’ve promised to send them a postcard when I get home.

Eventually wound my way across to Bayeux. This was really full of tourists, but I managed to find a parking place and the path to the tapestry which is actually housed in part of the town library. The Tapestry itself is remarkable. It was made soon after the Norman Conquest and the Battle of Hastings when William of Normandy became King of England in the middle of the 11th century. The panels recount the events leading up to and during the battle. It provides a fantastic pictorial story and information depicting the episodes, ships, weapons, clothes and way of life at the time.
I also visited the Cathedral Notre Dame. A Romanesque style church with soaring arches. It is highly decorated with sculptures, stone carvings, ornate pillars with side chapels, aisles and a crypt. I am fascinated with these buildings.

The old town of Bayeux is also interesting as it has a different kind of architecture to other places. Whilst stone is still prominent, there is more use of lathe and plaster and wood, particularly on the upper levels.

After a very packed day, I made my way to St. Lo. I had decided to use this as a base for the surrounding countryside, so booked into the Mecure Hotel for 2 nights. I was rather surprised to find out that the restaurant wasn’t open at the weekends, so had to eat out. After a short walk found a good looking eatery and settled in. The menu wasn’t that exciting, so decided to go for the chef’s special….I sat with an entrée of salad and a red vino wondering what would arrive .. it was a plate of raw beef, just that!! Fortunately it came with herbs and oil, so with a liberal sprinkling of these I tucked in. Actually it was quite enjoyable, but not something I would order as a main meal in a hurry. Maybe an entrée would be ok.

Saturday 20th June
St Lo is another fortress city and the ramparts are directly across the river from the hotel and the old city is enclosed within its walls. I never realized how many of these citadels there are. Talk about a lesson in history! The city was almost razed by WW2 bombing, so there are many new building here and only pockets of old areas.

Sunday 21st June
Went for a driving tour of the peninsula today. Visited Carteret, Normandy Beaches of WW2 (Utah), country villages and coastal areas including Pirou Plage where the local market was in full swing.

Can’t imagine how awful it must have been to be here during the d-day battles, but the excitement of Liberation must have been awesome. Carteret was the first French city to be liberated. There are many memorials, bunkers and other marked sites in the area as well as the evidence of damaged walls and buildings in some places.

There has been a Fireworks display tonight which I watched from the hotel window after I heard the first explosion. Probably to celebrate the longest day and the beginning of a music festival that begins in St Lo tomorrow. There is a stage, lots of electronic gear and marquees being set up in the park below the ramparts, just across the river from where I’m staying.

Monday 22
On the road again and only a couple of days left in France now. Today I visited Granville which is another place which I loved and would like a week to explore, also visited a pretty beach village (Plage de Joullouville) for lunch and finally made my way to Mont St Michel abbey.

Just off the coast between Granville and San Marlo the abbey was founded in the year 708 and is built on what was a rocky island about 1km around. It could only be reached at low tide but today it has a causeway which allows access at all times. Throughout the centuries, buildings have been added and in addition to the church and there is a little one street town, with museums, souvenier shops and cafes. Once again, there were many, many steps to climb, but each one was worth the effort. Another amazing historic site.

After visiting the abbey, I made my way into San Marlo where I booked a room at the Ibis hotel for two nights. Tomorrow I’m off to Rennes to return the car.

Tuesday 23
Had an uneventful trip to Rennes and found the station carpark and terminal where I returned the car then caught a train back to San Marlo. Went for a walk along the Grand Plage before heading back to the hotel about 4 km from the city. I haven’t had much time to explore this town but there is obviously plenty to do here. Tomorrow morning I am catching the ferry to Jersey, Channel Islands.